Arriving in Lao
What a whirlwind of a month or so it has been after arriving in Lao. I am now starting to feel a bit settled and comfortable going about things in Vientiane. Before I start posting my adventures of 2012 I will explain a few highlights of my arrival so far in Asia.
Vientiane
I immediately had a good feeling about being in Vientiane. Perhaps after a few months in India I was drawn to the relaxed and clean atmosphere of the streets and peacefulness of people. The city runs along the edge of the Mekong, which is especially beautiful at sunset. There are lots of places for cocktails and for watching kids playing games and people exercising up and down the footpath. Community aerobic takes place most nights which is a pretty funny hip swinging experience and I've played a few frisbee games on the river bed. This area is a great part of Vientiane and I love being able to see Thailand just across the other side of the water. A market is also set up every night along the Mekong selling lots of interesting things.
Vientiane Attractions
Patuxai
A sunset after frisbee training on the Mekong
Random gym equipment set up for people to use
The French and Food
I was surprised by the French influence in Vientiane. There are some interesting similarities to monuments in Paris, lots of French used on signs and in restaurants and croissants galore. I have a few favourite places for a strong late when in need and I have also found a few local Lao eats in town and near my house with great Lao and Vietnamese food. I think I’ve eaten more garlic and ginger in Lao than I have in the last decade. Most dishes are full of these flavours and a lot of chilli. I’ve discovered some great foods; sticky rice, tofu cold spring rolls, savoury papaya salad and dragon fruit (although I think I am more in love with it’s hot pink skin). A lot of the great food places are tucked away in side streets with no real shop front so I’ve been lucky having some other expats show me the not so obvious places to take advantage of. Most shops and or restaurants in Lao only sell one thing so most of the thought is put into where you will eat rather then looking at the menu when you get there. During my first week of work my boss took me to the yellow noodle soup shop, the while noodle soup shop, the small noodle soup shop etc
Local Eats
My first 'western coffee'
Everything comes in take away bags for motor bike convenience...even chocolate shakes
Great with ice and cheaper than water
Living
I am living in a lovely house in a Lao suburb with 2 other Australian girls, Jess and Liena. Our house looks a tad out of place being so big and white and surrounded with palm trees compared to the other houses in our street but its nice to be surrounded by locals who are very friendly and seem to be keeping an eye on our things. There are always groups of girls waiting outside our gate to say good morning to me and laugh when I leave for work. Our neighbours/ most Lao people love to party/ play loud music so the only down side is extreme volumes of base played every night over the top of barking dogs and crowing roosters. We do enjoy the luxury of a maid though to help keep the place in shape (and I am worried I am already getting a little too used to this). Our house is right in between my work and the centre of town and opposite the French Embassy and French hospital. We are now most excited that our favourite Vietnamese cafe is moving one house down from us.
My Street and Home
I love our water tipper device
Jess and Liena with our language teacher
Jess and Liena enjoying our new favourite activity, mosquito zapping (although the bang and burn smell is quiet confronting at first)! I usually get at least 5 zaps before hopping into bed each night.
Getting around
I rented a bike for a few days when I first arrived and then gave the motorbike a go, which despite a few dramas has been a good way to get around. Vientiane is one of the world’s smallest capital cities so without a good sense of direction I’ve been coping finding my way around. People seem to drive pretty slowly but I am still confused with a lot of road practices. I have got used to driving on the right but cars and bikes have no intentions on keeping to one lane (/ know what a lane is ) and never indicate before changing direction. I tend to go really slow to avoid crashing but then because the cars know that I won't be racing past, they constantly cut out in front of me instead. I have carried my suitcase, numerous coffees and fruit shakes and shopping on my bike so far and I also have the challenge of watching my key while I drive as it tends to fall out of the bike while its still running. It was stressful one night when I arrived at home, went to park and realised my key was missing. I had no way to turn off the bike and was then forced to spend the night looking for my key on the road (which I am proud to have found not far from my house)! Perhaps I’ll start driving the work car soon but the bike seems to be the easiest way to move through traffic jams and get to places on time.
My main stress on the streets though are the dogs. I was not phased to start with until one bit me not the leg (luckily not getting through my jeans and for all the shots I had before arriving). Most dogs seem to now sense my fear and I get chased and barked at constantly. I am forced to carry rocks and sticks at all times and I'm finding that looking confident and a simple lift of the arm is getting me through most street corners. Its not an ideal way to move around but at least my arm muscles are getting a work out ha.
Traffic
Work
I am working at Lao Law and Consultancy as a legal advisor in the foreign advisory team with another Australian, an American and Englishman. The firm has approximately 20 other Lao employees. Everyone has been very friendly and I was welcomed with a traditional ‘Basi Ceremony’ which is held when welcoming or farewelling someone to the family or workplace. The leader of the ceremony wished everyone good fortune and then ribbons were tied around my wrist while well wishes and offerings of food were given to me. Most people wished me many boyfriends and loves in Lao and good health for my family and again many more boyfriends and marriages. To Lao people its seems strange that I am ‘so old’ and not married and it seems perfectly normal for every person who is introduced to me to ask ‘mary…married?’ Some of the staff at work have been calling me fatty (although most other people have named me Marli meaning Jasmine) so there seems to be some cultural differences at times in appropriate general conversation topics/ comments. People tend to say exactly what they think and ask what they want to know which I am not always prepared for.
Basi (Welcoming) Ceremony
LLC Chrismtas Party
Oudomxay
Work flew me to the north of Lao in my third week to advise Chinese clients buying rubber plantations in Lao. Everything about the experience was challenging but a great opportunity to learn about Lao law very quickly, see and meet farmers and Lao farming communities and develop my skills in working with Asian businessman/ Chinese lawyers. I was immediately asked if I was Christian and weather or not I intended to celebrate Christmas as they wanted me to know their work was a priority! The trip ended with a buffet dinner eating worms and suffering from food poisoning for the following 2 days.
Around Oudomaxy and Surrounding Villages
Christmas
In the lead up to Christmas I went to an Australian Volunteers BBQ with my housemates which was to help support a village teenage football team origionally established to help rehabilitate young kids with drug problems. All the players were given new boots and it was a great event to be apart of seeing how appreciative and happy the boys were.
Christmas Football Game
Liena's shop, Saoban had a Christmas sale night where Jess happened to win the Christmas raffle. I love meeting Liena here after work and find it very hard resisting all the lovely hand made things.
Saoban
Liena, Jess and I went to a Lao Christian church service for some carols Christmas Eve and then Christmas day was a fun lunch celebrated with some other Australians with good wine and home cooked food. A generous Kris Kringle also surprised me with a lovely Lao cotton purse and some local jewellery.
Hmong ethnic group choir in their traditional dress at Christmas Eve church service
